5 results
On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water
- X. Barthelemy, M. L. Banner, W. L. Peirson, F. Fedele, M. Allis, F. Dias
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- Journal:
- Journal of Fluid Mechanics / Volume 841 / 25 April 2018
- Published online by Cambridge University Press:
- 23 February 2018, pp. 463-488
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We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the breaking onset of 2D and 3D irrotational gravity water waves. Based on a fully nonlinear 3D boundary element model, our numerical simulations investigate geometric, kinematic and energetic differences between maximally tall non-breaking waves and marginally breaking waves in focusing wave groups. Our study focuses initially on unidirectional domains with flat bottom topography and conditions ranging from deep to intermediate depth (depth to wavelength ratio from 1 to 0.2). Maximally tall non-breaking (maximally recurrent) waves are clearly separated from marginally breaking waves by their normalised energy fluxes localised near the crest tip region. The initial breaking instability occurs within a very compact region centred on the wave crest. On the surface, this reduces to the local ratio of the energy flux velocity (here the fluid velocity) to the crest point velocity for the tallest wave in the evolving group. This provides a robust threshold parameter for breaking onset for 2D wave packets propagating in uniform water depths from deep to intermediate. Further targeted study of representative cases of the most severe laterally focused 3D wave packets in deep and intermediate depth water shows that the threshold remains robust. These numerical findings for 2D and 3D cases are closely supported by our companion observational results. Warning of imminent breaking onset is detectable up to a fifth of a carrier wave period prior to a breaking event.
On the microphysical behaviour of wind-forced water surfaces and consequent re-aeration
- William L. Peirson, James W. Walker, Michael L. Banner
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- Journal:
- Journal of Fluid Mechanics / Volume 743 / 25 March 2014
- Published online by Cambridge University Press:
- 05 March 2014, pp. 399-447
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A detailed laboratory investigation of the mechanical and low-solubility gas coupling between wind and water has been undertaken using a suite of microphysical measurement techniques. Under a variety of wind conditions and in the presence and absence of mechanically generated short waves, approximately fetch-independent surface conditions have been achieved over short laboratory fetches of several metres. The mechanical coupling of the surface is found to be consistent with Banner (J. Fluid Mech. vol. 211, 1990, pp. 463–495) and Banner & Peirson (J. Fluid Mech. vol. 364, 1998, pp. 115–145). Bulk observations of re-aeration are consistent with previous laboratory studies. The surface kinematical behaviour is in accordance with the observations of Peirson & Banner (J. Fluid Mech. vol. 479, 2003, pp. 1–38). Also, their predictions of a strong enhancement of low-solubility gas flux at the onset of microscale breaking is confirmed and direct observations show a concomitant onset of very thin aqueous diffusion sublayers. It is found that the development of strong parasitic capillary waves towards the incipient breaking limit does not noticeably enhance constituent transfer. Across the broad range of conditions investigated during this study, the local instantaneous constituent transfer rate remains approximately log-normally distributed with an approximately constant standard deviation of $0.62\pm 0.15({\mathrm{log}}_e(\mathrm{m}~ {\mathrm{s}}^{-1}))$. Although wind-forced water surfaces are shown to be punctuated by intense tangential stresses and local surface convergence, localized surface convergence does not appear to be the single critical factor determining exchange rate. Larger-scale orbital wave straining is found to be a significant constituent transfer process in contrast to Witting (J. Fluid Mech. vol. 50, 1971, pp. 321–334) findings for heat fluxes, but the measured effects are consistent with his model. By comparing transfer rates in the presence and absence of microscale breaking, low-solubility gas transfer was decomposed into its turbulent/capillary ripple, gravity-wave-related and microscale breaking contributions. It was found that an efficiency factor of approximately $17\, \%$ needs to be applied to Peirson & Banner’s model, which is extended to field conditions. Although bulk thermal effects were observed and thermal diffusion layers are presumed thicker than their mass diffusion counterparts, significant thermal influences were not observed in the results.
Growth and dissipation of wind-forced, deep-water waves
- Laurent Grare, William L. Peirson, Hubert Branger, James W. Walker, Jean-Paul Giovanangeli, Vladimir Makin
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- Journal:
- Journal of Fluid Mechanics / Volume 722 / 10 May 2013
- Published online by Cambridge University Press:
- 28 March 2013, pp. 5-50
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The input of energy by wind to water waves is compared with the observed growth of the waves using a suite of microphysical measurement techniques in the laboratory. These include measured tangential stresses in the water and air immediately adjacent to the interface with corresponding form drag measurements above wind-forced freely propagating waves. The drag data sets are consistent but the comparison has highlighted important issues in relation to the measurement of fluctuating pressures above freely propagating waves. Derived normalized wind input values show good collapse as a function of mean wave steepness and are significantly in excess of the assembly of net wave growth measurements by Peirson & Garcia (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 608, 2008, pp. 243–274) at low steepness. Sheltering coefficients in the form of Jeffreys (Proc. R. Soc. Lond. Ser. A, vol. 107, 1925, pp. 189–206) are derived that are consistent with values previously obtained by Donelan & Pierson (J. Geophys. Res., vol. 92, 1987, pp. 4971–5029), Donelan (Wind-over-Wave Couplings: Perspectives and Prospects, Clarendon, 1999, pp. 183–194) and Donelan et al. (J. Phys. Oceanogr., vol. 36, 2006, pp. 1672–1689). The sheltering coefficients exhibit substantial scatter. By carefully measuring the associated growth of the surface wave fields, systematic energy budgets for the interaction between wind and waves are obtained. For non-breaking waves, there is a significant and systematic misclose in the radiative transfer equation if wave–turbulence interactions are not included. Significantly higher levels of turbulent wave attenuation are found in comparison with the theoretical estimates by Teixeira & Belcher (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 458, 2002, pp. 229–267) and Ardhuin & Jenkins (J. Phys. Oceanogr., vol. 36, 2006, pp. 551–557). Suitable normalizations of attenuation for wind-forced wave fields exhibit consistent behaviour in the presence and absence of wave breaking. Closure of the surface energy flux budget is obtained by comparing the normalized energy loss rates due to breaking with the values previously determined by Banner & Peirson (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 585, 2007, pp. 93–115) and Drazen et al.(J. Fluid Mech., vol. 611, 2008, pp. 307–332) when expressed as a function of mean wave steepness. Their normalized energy loss rates obtained for non-wind forced breaking wave groups are remarkably consistent with the levels found during this present study when breaking waves are subject to wind forcing.
On the wind-induced growth of slow water waves of finite steepness
- WILLIAM L. PEIRSON, ANDREW W. GARCIA
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- Journal:
- Journal of Fluid Mechanics / Volume 608 / 10 August 2008
- Published online by Cambridge University Press:
- 11 July 2008, pp. 243-274
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Determining characteristic growth rates for water waves travelling more slowly than the wind has continued to be a key unresolved problem of air–sea interaction for over half a century. Analysis of previously reported and recently acquired laboratory wave data shows a systematic decline in normalized wave growth with increasing mean wave steepness that has not previously been identified. The normalized growth dynamic range is comparable with previously observed scatter amongst other laboratory data gathered in the slow wave range. Strong normalized growth rates are observed at low wave steepnesses, implying an efficient wave-coherent tangential stress contribution. Data obtained during this study show quantitative agreement with the predictions of others of the interactions between short wind waves and the longer lower-frequency waves. Measured normalized wave growth rates are consistent with numerically predicted growth due to wave drag augmented by significant wave-coherent tangential stress.
Water wave attenuation due to opposing wind
- WILLIAM L. PEIRSON, ANDREW W. GARCIA, STEVEN E. PELLS
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- Journal:
- Journal of Fluid Mechanics / Volume 487 / 25 June 2003
- Published online by Cambridge University Press:
- 25 June 2003, pp. 345-365
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A laboratory investigation of the attenuation of mechanically generated waves by an opposing wind has been completed. Wave attenuation was quantified by measurements of the decline in surface variance. These measurements show higher effective levels of monochromatic wave attenuation than predicted by air-side measurements: approximately an order of magnitude higher than measurements by Young & Sobey (1985) and, a factor of 3 higher than those of Donelan (1999) for waves in a JONSWAP spectrum. Furthermore, they show that theoretical estimates currently underestimate the attenuation rates by a factor of at least 3. This study has shown that the magnitude of wave attenuation rates due to opposing winds is approximately 2.5 times greater than the magnitude of wave growth rates for comparable wind forcing. At high wave steepnesses, detailed analysis suggests that air-side processes alone are not sufficient to induce the observed levels of attenuation. Rather, it appears that energy fluxes from the wave field due to the interaction between the wave-induced currents and other subsurface motions play a significant role once the mean wave steepness exceeds a critical value. A systematic relationship between the energy flux from the wave field and mean wave steepness was observed. The combination of opposing wind and wind-induced water-side motions is far more effective in attenuating waves than has previously been envisaged.